Dumbarnie Links
Not Dumbarnie club but Dumbarnie links. And it does, perhaps link back to days gone by where land was offered up for golf and various groups of friends formed associations that chose to play their fixtures there. There are rates for locals and sliding scales for different groupings. It is definitely not a club. It is better than that; it’s welcome is unreserved. However, I am sure that they have the discrete eye of the best clubs to dissuade an unbecoming atmosphere should that dare to arise.
Approaching the club there is a reserved air, nothing is exposed, the anticipation builds. The reveal through the clubhouse doors of the first hole and the firth beyond is glorious. Every visitor must be buzzing by now. The welcome is enthusiastic so proud are they of their creation. All the windows lead you out to the course or putting green. It accommodates everything yet is minimalistic, there is no allowance for self-congratulation or aggrandisement, the course is the triumph. At other courses you might find a statue or portrait of the leading figure mocked up perhaps with presidential bearing as the front page of Time Out or some such. Let the course do the talking.
And it talks like the best of caddies; wise words in your ear and louder ribald comment when appropriate. We had four such wise men who led us south, north west and east and were frank in sense and mirth for their gold. The best way to enjoy this course.
Each hole has a view of the sea, each hole is self contained a wandering furrow through dunes not a stadia as such but an atmospheric chamber. You are not likely to see or meet someone coming the other way. Trails from green to tee are happily distant and there are crossovers where refreshment can be obtained. Some modern courses are designed for stadiums to be erected but leave so much space between holes that they do not come to life when the grandstands are not there. I am sure Dumbarnie can accommodate grandstands but it loses nothing by them not being present.
I am told that the land only held two dunes before construction began although the land is naturally linksy. There are rather more now. I liked the unrestrained trampolining dunes bouncing up everywhere. The bunkers are wild scrapes in some places and carefully revetted elsewhere, and sometimes revetted, on closer inspection, with artificial materials though you would not notice. It could have been spoilt by manicuring. However all the playing areas were exactly as you would wish them. It is a stunning achievement to have produced such a fine course in such excellent condition so quickly. Some of the dune side rough areas will need a couple of good growing seasons to nurture the right balance of grasses and biodiversity and in places looks a little like the head of a man with hair transplants. That will come and in the meantime we have a better chance of finding the ball in those wayward locks of rough.
The land runs down to the sea and the front nine takes you eastwards before turning to the westernmost point. No out and back here nor convenient tenth tee by the clubhouse. You are setting off on an adventure and you are required to traverse the whole adventure. The course is set on the hillside down to the sea so you get the natural rise and fall of the land without anything untoward. There are burns running down and marshy areas and even a pond rather larger than found on other links courses. Ponds are rare on links land as it is so free draining but there is one on the Eden course at St Andrews and a few elsewhere, but not many. There are no trees other than those around the clubhouse so wind is your sometimes unpredictable foursomes partner. All as it should be.
I was surprised that all the short holes fall on even numbered holes. Two of them play into the prevailing wind and two across and downhill. Three of the par 5s are on odd numbered holes. Annoying if you play foursomes but maybe it betrays the fact that the land dictated the layout. It would make an interesting Ryder Cup course where you could pair power and precision. Mind you, off the back tees some of the par 3s are not so short. And the three short par 4s are also all on the odd numbers. As I have discoursed before this is one of my favourite styles on a links course with hare and tortoise options for match players depending on wind and the state of the game.
It took me a couple of holes to overcome the nerves and excitement and find a little rhythm. But when you play it well it is such a joy. Much is made of the risk and reward holes but are all holes not risk and reward? In any event you have to make up your mind off the tee and execute your strategy. It is great fun and I loved the split fairways. Playing better ball matchplay is the way to get to grips with this course as you can see it in all it’s guises.
There is nothing wrong with the greens only my putting. As my caddie, Sandy, said if you dribble here you will be put in a home (probably for the bewildered [putters]). “I could a been a contender” as someone once said, if only I could putt.
I could take you through all the holes and wax lyrical but I want you to go and play it. Only an hour from Edinburgh and twenty minutes from St Andrews. No excuses. I hope that the excitement it brings to the golfing world will reignite passion for links golf and I am sure it will bring additional green fees to it’s worthy neighbours.
Special thanks to the owners and management team for allowing me to pay green fees to Alzheimer’s Society, especially at the start of your commercial journey. No one more grateful than me for a splendid day. I will be back. Perhaps I shall start an informal club that plays its Spring and Autumn meeting here; maybe the Bewildered and Ancient.
